My harddrive fried and I lost a lot of work on this website. I will leave it unfinished
for the time being and get back to it if someone motivates me. But there should be plenty
of information to help rookie planters. I will try to upgrade it over time. I also plan to
add an easily searchable database where treeplanters can post comments about their
experiences working with different treeplanting companies <ask if need something for
treeplanting companies regarding the foresters/contracts> . All suggestions and
additions are welcome too!
TABLE OF CONTENTS |
|
On This Page |
On the Next Page |
|
Planning Your Next Treeplanting Spot Getting to Your Next Treeplanting Spot Prodding With Your Shovel Inserting the Shovel Make Your Treeplanting Hole Insert Your Tree Close Your Hole Efficiency of Movement Planting Medium |
Dietary Supplements Treeplanting Stories Stretching When You Treeplant Preparing for the Treeplanting Season
Quality Control Treeplanting Plot Cutting and Filling Your Piece Creamy Spots |
Other Pages |
Useful Third Party Pages |
|
List of Treeplanting Companies Treeplanting Accounting Software |
Treeplanters Database - where planters can submit and view comments concerning treeplanting companies |
History of Tree PlantingI couldn't find much on the internet, but I believe treeplanting started or matured the fastest in New Zealand, where they would have run out of trees much earlier than in larger countries. For many years in Canada, and apparently still the practice in the US, trees were planted in unison by a row of treeplanters. They would all move forward a few steps and plant a row of trees together, waiting for the slowest planter before moving on to the next row. On the highway you could drive by these planted rows and they would appear like spokes in a bicycle, the perfect rows flashing by you. One day a Dutchman named Brinkman approached the government with a proposal to charge the same price for the same number of trees, as long as his crew was able to plant their trees in their own method. |
|
He trained a crazy crew who set out to fill a logged clear cut, each planter planting their trees on their own, and they planted so many trees per day that everyone's head turned, until the whole industry was soon following their practice.
With row, or "cattle" planting, the government would try to wow city dwellers with an attractive hourly wage. But the high numbers planted by those planting on their own and paid per tree meant they were making a lot more money per day, as were the company owners. Capitalism and the lust for greater profits naturally led the industry to shift towards this practice. <<
When I was first invited by a friend to go treeplanting, I imagined a nice green lawn with cut grass with little strings to guide the treeplanters, who would be on their knees while gently negotiating a young tree into the ground using a hand spade. It is far from that notion. Instead, imagine a logging company which comes into a large mountain valley and clears much of it of trees using unimagineably large machines which grab many trees at once, like chop sticks, and cuts their base using a massive blade. Someone else decides that perhaps a third of them are not of sufficient quality for the US housing industry, and are left on the "block" (the area clearcut of trees). Sometimes they burn up the rejected trees in piles or as they are, other times they just leave them there for you to clamber over the entire day. While you carry roughly 300 seedlings on your back in your treeplanting bags. If it is wet and rainy, there is much slash (rejected and piled up cut down trees) and the ground is very steep, you may be forced to wear heavy rubber boots with cleats (screw-in spikes to help you clamber across wet logs) that only slow you down while you try to swing your heavier legs over the pile-up of dead trees. Meanwhile, billions of bugs such as mosquitos, black flies and nosee'ems (their so small you can't see them, but plenty pesty in light of their size) lunge into your eyes as you turn around in search of your next planting spot, or pierce you in your back for the few seconds that you were hunched over, or crawl through the cracks of your clothes to bite you in the softest and juicies spots, such as the back of your ears. It may be boiling hot, or rainy cold, or severely windy.
|
You are battling the fiercest of nature to ram these little seedlings into the ground. Between two and four thousand of them daily, if you intend to make any worthwhile money. Once you have arrived frenzidly to your next plantable spot, you hope that the first place your shovel reached is an easy plunge. But often you have to use the full force of your biceps to muscle the large blade into tough and dry clay, or wrestle them through rocks, or between roots. Or you have to screef (remove) away a heavy layer of surface peet or old rotten log. Once you force your shovel into the earth, you have to create a sufficiently large wedge into which you can ram the plug (seedling roots grown into a long plug of soil), preferably straight and at the exact depth, otherwise the forester will fail your tree and you will suffer a painful fine. |
Doing this rather muscular and frenzied work, under such harsh conditions, for around 10 hours a day. You cannot afford to take very long breaks, otherwise your body may cool down and it will be painful to start up again, or you have given yourself enough time to ponder at the repetitive madness of your daily work to the point of discouraging you from continuing. All this so that we could comfortably wipe our arses with bleached and processed wood pulp.
Obviously anyone who would be willing to endure such conditions, often while sleeping in a tent, eating in another one, and crapping in a third, has to be a certain breed of person.
I used to take Aikido, a defensive form of martial arts, and I always marvelled at the difference between that group and the previous one we were replacing in the gym and who were studying karate. Karate is aggressive and offensive, while Aikido is much more defensive, using an attacking person's motions and momentum against them. I developed a theory that, because it was so much more defensive, students of the Aikido class were much more cheery and positive, while the karate students seemed cross and looking for a confrontation. In the same way I speculated that the good environmental deeds of the treeplanter either attracted or fostered a peaceful and environmentally concerned character. Tree planters are generally independent thinking, care about their health, their environment, and more on the left of the political spectrum. But they are also zany. I guess you have to be to endure these conditions. Many play musical instruments and are creative in general. Many work hard but also party hard. I definitely feel a nostalgic romance about tree planters in general. In the days when I first started planting (around 1990), tree planters were made of three types of people, about one third of the group each. In British Colombia, one group owned some property on an island along the coast, where they often had no electricity, raised their own cows, didn't pay taxes, and worked hard treeplanting for a certain amount of months so that they could collect unemployment insurance for the rest of the year and grow dope on their property to sell to the Californian market. |
|
I heard that the government would occasionally drop fliers from planes reminding the citizens that they actually lived in a country and should contribute something towards taxes.
|
The islands were difficult to get to and the BC ferry system was technically the largest naval fleet in the world (in terms of number of boats). Such islanders felt their island was their own country and were not interested in integrating themselves into the corporate and consuming world. The second group also collected unemployment insurance for the rest of the year, but would use it to travel around the world, mostly in third world and inexpensive countries, where they could live like kings and learn many interesting stories about other countries. I found these two groups of tree planters quite interesting and they varied in age - from 20 to 53. The third group were like myself - young students who worked hard to pay their way through university. But they were zany and interesting as well. |
Now, some 17 years later when I have returned briefly to this profession, I found that almost the entire group was now comprised of the last group. As if the young students lusting for money and willing to expend their bodies more took over the other two groups, who were no longer willing to work for the reduced tree prices.
The same thing is apparently now happening in the pine cone picking industry. One fast planter here described to me how he makes about 600 bucks a day picking cones because the industry is mostly populated by older crack heads who are not capable of picking so many cones, for which reason the prices are designed for their speed. I gather this industry might also eventually be invaded and taken over by the young bucks. After all, the higher the output of each person, the greater the profits of the company, and hence their attraction to such productive personnel. Going back to how I felt the environmentally friendly nature of this treeplanting job created a more socially and environmentally concerned character, I used to fantasize that animals, like bear, moose or deer who would sometimes sit in the open space and stare at you while you plant, would thank these kind replacers of the forest. I felt safer because of my "concerned character" and had faith that the animals could sense it. |
|
But now I feel that they must perceive us as part of the same insane industry which would eliminate an entire forest - their natural habitat - in the first place. Now I think they might be considering whether to maul these destructive creatures. But they usually leave us in peace. Although once I heard that a planter was busy working on one small BC island while a curious small deer would follow behind him, nibbling off the juicy crowns of the trees he had just freshly planted. The deer would stop after finishing its nibbling, staring with wide curious eyes waiting for the planter to provide the next piece of desert. In defense of this the nurseries would experiment with cougar urine and other natural or chemical liquids to help scare away such snackers. Or the humans could help eradicate such nuisances, as the planter told me that island's pub specialised in "bambi burgers". Other times a bear might sit on the block for the longest time, staring at a bear as if he were trying to figure out what on earth they were doing. I myself saw a moose cross over my piece and give me a casual look.
Because I like to design webpages, and I'd like to sell my tree planting accounting software, I thought I'd put these pages together and write down all the tricks I know of how to make good money while planting trees. You would think that it mostly depends on brute force, but most of it depends on efficiency of movement and the right drive. I've seen small framed little girls planting double or more of hard working and muscular males. I have planted for seven years. For the first six I was at the top of my crew, although sometimes I would run into tree planters who would plant almost double what I did. I discounted them as mad people out in the stars and who should not be counted. But when I came back for my seventh year some 17 years later, I found myself on a crew that were comprised only of highballers (fast planters), and I was one of their slowest. Even though I had picked up new tricks and was earning and planting more than when I had been planting earlier. During all these years I picked up a lot of tricks, and I'd like to try and explain them to you all here. I'd say there are several factors which can help you plant many trees per day: |
|
the speed at which you plant each tree, which mostly depends on efficiency of movement and an avoidance of any dilly dallying;
the speed at which you choose and get to your next plantable spot;
how well you are at maintain this pace or rhythm, and at limiting your breaks during the day.
To plant a fast tree, you want to make a good micro site selection. Your shovel is a tool that can be used in many ways. Such as a probe to help you find the exact spot. You can poke the blade at the ground and learn to feel what it must be like underneath. Sometimes I've planted on very rocky ground, but by poking I could feel where the rocks were smaller, would give way a bit, and where I felt I would be more likely to be able to wedge the blade into the earth. Other times you learn to read the ground <pics> for more ideal spots, such as soft soil between the roots of a large stump, where you see a thin layer of moss over rounded earth - an indication of moister and softer ground capable of supporting such thirsty vegetation. We should start this story at the point of planting the previous tree. While you are hunched over and burying your tree into the ground, you might have time to look around a bit, scan the ground, look for your other trees, and plan where roughly to plant your next tree. |
|
To help you understand this decision process, I'd first like to explain something about the 'specs' (technical specifications). For example, depending on the nature of the soil and the climate conditions of the area, the forester might as for 7 trees per plot at 2.5 metre spacing, with 1.6 metre minimum. A plot is a circle with a radius of 8 feet. Most planters will be asked to carry with them a plot cord measuring 8 metres long, to help them regulate their spacing. You would plant your shovel into the ground somewhere, drape the loop of your plot cord over the handle, and walk around the radius area counting how many trees fall into the circle.
|
In an ideal world with prestine beach sand and no obstacles, a fast planter would generally plant their trees about 1.6 metres apart - the minimum of the contract specs - so that they could walk shorter distances between trees and hence plant more trees per day. If they plant a row of trees at this short distance from one another, obviously the next row would have to lie farther than 2.5 metres distance from the first row in order to achieve an average of 7 trees per plot. This takes a bit of skill to get a nack for. But the main purpose of this minimum is to help the planter achieve the desired number of trees per plot when there is a lot of slash to work around. Obviously it might be next to impossible to plant a tree under a pile of dead trees. |
While planting your previous tree and when you scan your horizon to plan the rough location of your next spot, you might notice that thin layer of green moss indicating that perfect and juicy microsite where you could plunge your shovel with the least effort. You might also want to avoid some slash, by planting around it rather than waste your time by clambering over it. <pic> Whatever your reasons, you want to choose your next spot so that it is the shortest distance away, so that it is a good micro site selection in terms of an easy spot to plant your shovel into, and along some path which would help you avoid as much clambering over slash as possible. Other times, when the slash is not piled up so high and easier to walk over, it might be better to line plant.
There are therefore two strategies you can take when filling in a certain area: line planting or area planting. Line planting can be good when it is not so difficult to plant in straight lines. In this case you can get into a quick rhythm and pound your trees in, one after another, in an easy straight line not requiring much thinking or searching for your trees off of which to space your next ones. But if the slash is too high and obstructive, it could be better to break your line and fill in small areas, planting around slash to save time. When you first start planting it may be going slow for you as you stare at the mess around you and wonder what is the best strategy to take, but eventually your mind will respond instantly and automatically, without much thinking. Other times I like to follow the countour of the hill, to stay on the same horizontal and avoid tiring myself by walking up and down hills, possible at strange angles. So as you fill your piece with trees, sometimes you might fill in micro areas, other times you would bounce off your existing trees and slash, and other times line plant larger and easier areas. |
|
Whatever strategy you choose to take, once you have selected your route and the rough location of your next tree, you want to move to that location quickly and efficiently with minimum movement. A planter once asked a super highballer how many times they bend up and down each day, jokingly expecting a very high number, since that planter planted 5000 or more trees a day. But the highballer jokingly responded "once", meaning that they are hunched over pretty well much of the day, darting to their next plantable spot like a spider close to the ground. For such a fast planter there is no time to stand erect and walk graciously to the next spot.
|
As you slither efficiently towards your next spot and immediately after successfully planting your previous tree, you already want to be fumbling in your bag for your next tree, so that it is properly positioned in your planting hand and ready to deliver. Your shovel hand raises. You approach your next spot and already plan where you will take your first plunge. Hopefully your choice will be a good one and the blade plunges deep enough into the ground with minimal effort. Other times you may have to place your foot on one of the kickers to help force the blade into the ground. Or use two hands to wriggle it in. But one of them could already be holding the tree plug at the same time, so that you do not have to waste time fidgeting for it once you do make your hole. |
Or after attempting to plunge the blade into your chosen micro site, you might decide it was not the best one and prod further. You have to quickly calculate whether it would be more prudent to keep struggling with the present choice, or move on to find a better one.
Either way, once you have dedicated yourself to a particular spot, you want the shovel deep enough into the ground to allow for a straight plug. If your plug is not straight the checker might dig it up and fail you for it <link to checking requirements and procedures etc.> .
Planting your tree all begins as you planting your last tree, as you can often find the time while doing it to plan for your next spot < .
Usually while you are putting your tree into the ground, or as you rise up to depart to your next spot. Usually you would fill < your piece along the back < of it, or plant along the contour < of a hill, or along some major obstruction, like a lake, so you should be going in some general direction. Most often you are planting off your previous line <show pic> . When choosing your next spot, often you might triangulate between your last (present) tree and one tree in your previous line <link to ideal spacing etc.> . As mentioned in the spacing section < , it does not have to be exact, so while you are planting your tree or finishing up to start moving to your next tree, you already know what general direction you are heading and can quickly scan your immediate terrain to plan your route and decide roughly where you want to place your tree. This is because your route there may be obstructed by some slash < , and from a distance of roughly 2.5 metres you should already have an idea where the best plantable spot < . Having this rough strategy in your mind will help you avoid wasting time like some rookies who stand up erect after they successfully planted one tree and scratch their head while wondering where to go next. |
|
Now that you have an idea roughly where you want to plant your next tree, you want to get there with the most efficient movement. <ninja Indian first nations..>
One foreman kept repeating this to me. His numbers, whenever he got the opportunity to plant, were phenomenal. I watched him and he didn't seem to be moving fast.
|
Whenever I watched the ultra highballers, with numbers often double or more mine, they never seemed to be working harder than I. Perhaps they would spurt quicker to the next spot, but one thing I noticed is that they had that tree much faster in the ground than it took me. Over the years I have discovered and picked up from others many tricks how to limit movement, and a big part of it is to choose the correct approach (depending on the soil type, conditions, and the size of the plug <internal link> ) and do as many of them at the same time as you can. Effectively, multi-tasking. While planting, since I cannot stop myself from analysing and thinking about things, I would often imagine mimicking the difference between a low and highballer while training other planters. I will try to explain this mimick in writing, to get the point across in a more interesting way. lang="EN-CA" One day I took a few minutes to watch a new lowballer on the crew. It was the most amazing thing. He was the slowest planter I had ever seen and planted only about 230 trees a day, which after camp costs <il> would give him about as much as if he had worked behind the counter at McDonalds. So inevitably he gave up after two weeks and went back home. The few minutes I spent watching him struggle with a single tree, I saw how he would swing the shovel handle back and forth until he created a crater sized hole large enough to plant a small rabbit in. While he made this massively large hole, he would occasionally take a break, stand up, pull out a hankerchief and wipe his brow. |
Other times he might blow his nose, again. Once he finished with his massive hole, he would place the plug inside, and then spend a long time trying to close it up again. Other times I watch rookies and many times they are standing there scratching their heads, trying to orient themselves among all their trees, wondering where they should go next. I once calculated that each second you waste during the day equals about one penny. At such a rate the average work day, accounting for bagups and snack breaks, would add up to 360$, which is a rough ballpark figure for a highballer.
While mimicking the lowballer, I might clamber through slash, waving my arms and battling with every branch trying to poke me in the eye. Struggling and bobbling my way to my next plantable spot <il?>, after which I would sigh with relief and take a gasp before diving down to work on creating a hole. I would do every movement separately. In my early days, I would find myself standing erect, pulling out some ribbon with both hands and tying it to some branch or bush, with a double not to make sure it would not blow away. I hope you get the picture. Contrast this with the way a highballer might do the same operation. With the hole successfully sealed around the plug, the highballer already has an idea which direction he/she wants to go. In fact, while planting the tree, or while approaching the present plantable spot, he has already scanned the surrounding area and picked out his next target. While planting I follow a general direction, which my navigation senses unconciously keep in mind. As soon as I am done with one tree and while I am getting up, I start moving in that direction. You can plant a tree without even seeing another tree to plant off, because you can correct any errors through various techniques < . While in the motion of moving towards my next spot my left hand wizzes up to the ribbon which had been dandling loosely, at a specific height from my left pouch and in near proximity to the tree I was planting. |
|
My right hand is using the shovel as a crutch to help me rise up as my left hand pulls the ribbon towards my right hand. I loop the ribbon through my right thumb, naturally located on the left part of the handle. Once at a specific length I let go of the ribbon with my left hand to regrab it closer to where my thumb is pinning it to rip it off and place it somewhere on the ground. This all I have accomplished before taking my first step. While taking my first step, I have already assessed a small bush in my way and have place my foot on the ground while stepping on the stem to get the obstruction out of my way.
|
But most of the time I ninja my way through the jungle, with minimum resistance against nature, slithering through the quagmire and get to my next spot with one or two slinky and carefully targetted steps. While on the way I have found plenty of time to raise the knuckle of my right hand to my nose, close one nozzle and snort out some boogers from the other. No time for kleenex and I'll save the other nostrel for the next tree, if I can't squeeze it in during this one. While approaching and slinking my way to my next tree, my left hand is already fumbling in my case for the next tree, my right hand slowly raising the shovel, poised and moving gracefully in the air in anticipation of lunging into my next plantable spot. My assessment of the terrain was, once again, correct, and the shovel glides effortlessly into the soil, which I anticipated under that small patch of specifically coloured moss. It doesn't matter how tough and intimidating the ground may look, you just overcome and DO it. Look at Julia treeplanting below. |
Otherwise, if I am on some clayey or rocky ground and anticipate there could be a struggle getting the shovel in quickly, my last step is right on the heels of the shovel kicker. My other foot has already been placed in a position to help me balance while using my left leg to nudge the shovel into the ground. While I open the hole with one or as few movements as possible, the left hand is already coming down with tree in hand. It is a natural movement from one tree to the next, multitasking as many movements as possible. It is a smooth, ninja style flow, and you can capture a rhythm. It even looks magical and effortless, as shown by the ultra highballer in this video, who would get around 5000 trees a day in this crazy jungly ground.
|
|
Julia treeplanting: Im not special. If I can do it [plant 5,000 trees a day], you can too. |
|
The doubling up of tasks and minimising of movements is probably the first thing you'll learn. Where exactly to plant the next tree is a much more difficult problem and, as a rookie, you will often find yourself standing there staring around, dumbfounded and wondering which direction to go. If you get into the unconscious navigation mode, you are able to earmark your next plantable spot while moving in that general direction. I may use the treeline and edge of the block as a navigation guide, moving in parallel along it, first in one direction and then the next.
|
You learn to read the ground <il> quickly and know roughly where the next best spot will be. Choice of spot is very important, because a poorly chosen spot, such as one full of rocks, or rotten log, or roots, will slow you down considerably. A rookie treeplanter will often find himself banging around with the shovel, using it as a probe to find nice soft soil. Not finding the best place, he may spend much longer struggling with roots etc. Like a hawk picking out its prey from high up, a veteran planter can scan and assess the immediate terrain within one or two seconds and already know exactly where to plunge the shovel. We can refer to this as the "creamy spot" < . |
Spacing is another difficult issue. Some contracts want 6 trees a plot <il> with 2.5 metre spacing between trees, while other contracts want 9 trees per plot with 2.2 metre spacing between trees. Inevitably, it would be unreasonable to demand exact spacing between every tree, considering the amount of dead lumber left on the block, and rocks, roots, and "undesirable soil medium" <il>. In which case they came out with minimum spacing, such as 1.5 metres. You can use this "minimum spacing" <bookmark?> to give you some leeway and finding an optimum and nice new home for your seedling.
However, the brainy highballer will use this to his advantage such that technically every tree can be spaced at the minimum. Imagine planting 2000 trees at 2.5 metre spacing, and consider how many more trees you could have planted that day if you had walked 1.5 metres between them, instead of 2.5. That would be like taking some time off during the day and going for a two kilometre walk in the forest. Time better spent planting additional trees. When walking your line of trees and spacing off the last line, you can space farther away - perhaps at 3 metres. Making such an adjustment will enable you to plant the same number of trees per plot <il> while walking much smaller distances between trees. Let us call this "efficient space usage". Unfortunately, we do not live in a world of cotton candy and creamy soil everywhere we go. It can be a harsh and selfish world, full of brambles, thorns, lying trees and massive stumps. Therefore, rarely might we be able to plant in straight lines of tight spacing. Especially if we are near the coast, where width of the discarded trees can be as tall as a truck, the stumps consuming a lot of space, and the slope of the hill making such line planting and forced clambering over obstacles outright absurd. This is referred to as "area planting". Zig zagging your way AROUND all the obstacles, preferably along the horizontal contour of a slope, to plant your minimum spacing like taking small steps through a complex maze. Never stepping over a log, almost never struggling to your next plantable spot, always with the minimum amount of space between trees. |
|
This is also rather difficult and takes time to perfect. Many times the obstacle can be superfluous. A small dying tree melting into the surrounding moss. But my tree is so small that I can barely see it without ribboning. Rather than ribbon so much, I can use the dying log as part of a boundary for a mini area, which I can fill in without seeing my trees. Planting my way back in the opposite direction, I might notice one of the trees behind that log, perhaps I have left a small ribbon there, perhaps even remember that same log, and space off it, being confident that any "area" behind it has already been taken care of.
< lowballer bumbling around in the slash, poking in his eye; Czech waitress
< compare to washing the dishes fast and getting the job done; Chelse kicking apart the package of ribbon rolls; practicality of a woman
So you should start to get an idea how a highballer would minimise everything possible, from the amount of times he/she has to ribbon, to how many steps to take between trees, to the amount of slash <il - perhaps a different colour for popup definition> they have to clamber over or struggle through, to the doubling of tasks during the entire process.
< pharmacy stuff - just after diet? - include kostival etc.
< one day I managed not to pee at all!
< "but you'll find yourself shittin' through the eye of a needle, mate." Which may prove costly if you have to do it several times during the day. In which case the yoghurt or kefir <link> milk (specially formulated bacterial culture to ensure proper poop consistency) could be advisable.
Planting medium is the soil or other substance you are considering to plant your tree in. Usually they specify the requirements. Sometimes they let you plant in rotting wood. Usually if the rotting wood is still red but getting quite mushy and wet, that would be enough for a seedling to establish new roots. I've seen trees grow out of cracks in cliff faces, although I have to admit they are not very straight or marketable for the US housing industry. Generally the original contractor wants the most bang for their buck and want you to put their expensive seedlings into what would ensure them the greatest chance of survival. Obviously soil is the most ideal, followed by black mucky mushy stuff. But sometimes you have no choice and I found myself sandwhiching the poor seedling between rocks (the contract condition was that it had to be at least three rocks, never two).
It is not your job to make sure every one of your trees survive, but whatever measure you care about your trees will be visible to the checker and you will have fewer quality problems. The seedlings come equipped with juicy soil in the plug and added nutrients, so they have a bit of a head start. Usually they like to plant the trees during an optimum season for them. You may find yourself planting in wet swamp, which could become a dry desert within one month. It is a probabilities game and the industry must learn what is the best approach in each region. The best approach is to develop a sense of where the best medium is, and aim for those spots. To get your number of required trees per plot, you can squeeze more in less desireable medium, if nothing better is available. You can push the limits according to what you think the forester is after and there usually comes a point when the forester would rather you did not plant a tree where you did, because he realises the tree has no chance and you wasted one of their expensive seedlings. |
|
Fir generally like drier ground, spruce wetter, and pine can be more versatile, although generally it prefers drier ground. Sometimes you may have to carry several species with you and the forester hopes you will fumble for the right tree for the right location. On the coast they might ask you to drop a little fertiliser package next to your planted root.
|
For me, since I like to be so conscientious, I feel I have developed a feel for what the tree needs and give it my best shot, even if it costs me money. When the ground is drier, especially if you choose a higher spot, I like to squeeze the surrounding soil or medium more around the plug. Once it rains this can help retain a larger moist area around the tree and improve its chances of survival. When planting in rocks I'd try to tap soil from surrounding areas so that it would fall down around the tree, but most ultra highballers would never dream of performing such nonsense. When closing your hole you can often use your shovel or your planting hand to draw extra soil from surrounding areas, if needed. If you plunge your shovel into a rotten log, instead of pulling it out to look for a better spot, you can plunge your shovel deeper to get to the juicy soil beneath it, and quickly flick away some of the rotten wood so as not to bury your tree, since you planted it so deep. |
Basically, just imagine that the seedling needs some time to grow and establish roots, and that it needs to retain around it whatever amount of rainfall or ground water it can. The rest depends on what the forester is looking for, how much he/she will let you get away with, and what quality level you are shooting for.
< backcut/frontcut etc.
< motivation - Julia saying she is not special ; then talk about overambition and burnout (Julia crying..)
< genetically modify seedlings - forester diss story
< quick flagging
< compare to construction, physical nature of job...
< stories from the treeplanting world - ravens etc.
< bees; avoid beehives;
< heat/sun stroke - find in text and creat <bm>
- create css sheet to change colours of bookmarks and il etc.
I always noticed how those who put in the most numbers were usually those who got out of the truck first, volunteered to take the first available piece, were the fastest on their first bagup and already planting before anyone else. They were usually also always the last ones in the truck, planting until the very last possible second. The ultra highballers kept tisking and waving their finger at me, telling me I shouldnt waste so much time at the cash. One remarked, "Look, I am on my knees and resting, WHILE I am bagging up." This while he was nibbling on his lunch. Because I was so sore from such lengthy inactivity beforehand, I often needed to stretch, or just to recuperate. But they warned me, rightfully, that any rest period will slow down the blood flow and you can easily lose momentum. Some wouldnt even sit down to bagup but rather stand, hunched over. Others would pee while walking to the cash to bagup, wolfing down a sandwich while bagging up and then run off back into the field.
For me though, I would think like the British: "I just couldnt be bloody bothered, mate!" One ultra highballer explained how she would always try to push herself during the last 30 minutes of the day. Even the last 5 minutes. We added up how much the five minutes a day added up to over a three month season and it worked out roughly 500 dollars. She continued that, once you go all out nuts during those last five minutes of the day, the next day you can make it the last 7 minutes, then 10, and eventually work your way backwards towards your very first bagup, or once you step your foot out of the truck. While I am contented to breeze my way to my next plantable spot, I see them waste no time shuffling to theirs. Other times they seem slow and relaxed. They have that frenzied expression, lunging to the next spot like their life depended on it. Others repeat that it is all about efficiency of movement. One has a certain shuffle, almost skipping to the next spot to get his feet ligned up properly for the next implant. I watched him once plant across the horizon and he looked like Lancelot in the Monty Python Holy Grale, prancing on his invisible horse with shovel dangling from his right hand. Others admit that it is a brutal job, so they reason that they might as well push themselves to the very limit and make the torture as economically profitable as possible. It can be a horrid moment to stand at the cash, looking at that large empty piece and imagine the repetitiveness of planting each successive tree. In which case it is better to go hard all day and not give your mind time to reflect on the sheer banality of it. During my first rookie year, I once made a great leap as I was planting with some faster planters. I copied that rhythm since then but was surprised that it made me no more tired at the end of the day. I consider myself a casual highballer, earning 250 dollars a day without great stress. Those who were putting in double my figures looked like they worked about as much as I did, but that they zipped faster to the next spot, and seemed to ram their tree into the ground much faster than I. |
|
I saw one how she ripped open a package of flagging tape, first kicking it along the ground then slamming the side of it against a nearby bucket. She scooped up a couple rolls and darted off. There was something absolutely no-nonsense about her movements. While I would have analysed the wrapping, looking for where I could tear it open, she already had the dilemna resolved and was running off to plant. Smokers can also make great company around cashes during bagups and I always enjoyed making what I liked to refer to as "cigarette stories": stories or interesting snippets of information which took about a cigarette's worth of time to tell, and amusing enough to bum another cigarette.
|
But the ultra highballer would calculate how much those cigarettes cost them that day and not even think about it. One planter suggested I shouldn't waste my time closing the hole on beach sand, saying it closes itself automatically. I would suggest that you keep thinking about everything you do, always look for a better shortcut or how to shave off those valuable seconds, and watch others, asking them for tips. Dont just proceed as 'business as usual', repeating the same method, but always look for a better and more efficient way to do things. Push yourself hard. One girl said she always pushed herself harder on the first shift of a new contract, because it would show her body what to expect (the ground is often consistent with each contract) and adjust itself accordingly. I've seen people of all shapes and sizes put in large numbers - from small little girls, to the more aged carrying a matured keg of beer around their waste. Many say that it is in your mind. Mind over matter. After my experiences with treeplanting, I feel I can accomplish anything, once I set my mind to it. On the other hand, some measure of self control is also important. I've seen planters buzzed on Ginseng and pushing themselves so hard until they collapsed. Perhaps due to the heat, or their arm inflamed because of tendonitis; heck, one fast planter even dislocated his shoulder because of the way he was slamming his shovel into the ground. One girl broke down in tears from the stress. I deduced that she was pushing herself so hard, and became extremely frustrated when things were not working out regarding company organisation and she had to waste hours during some days waiting to plant. |
If you develop tendonitis you will lose at least a few days of planting, which ends up costing more than if you had noticed the pain and eased off on the exertion. Perhaps change your style of planting to give rest to a certain region of your body. Or purposefully take a day or half day off if you feel you need it. The body and mind has its limits and shuts itself off to protect itself, if you lack the reason and push it too hard. Which can then cost you more money, and possibly some permanent damage.
This is the tool will make all things happen. Inevitably, one can look at it as their golf club. You could even consider having different shovels for different types of ground. You can get a staff shovel, which is a long stick <show pic> , and a D handle, which is common to most shovels. The advantage of a staff shovel is that it can help you avoid tendonitis, because your hand would slide down the shaft if you happened to hit a hard rock. But the cost is that it is more difficult to slam ram the blade into the ground when it is hard and clayey. When I first started planting in rocky ground I quickly developed tendonitis. My forearm swelled up so much I could not plant for two weeks. But I was told that I was slamming too hard and that I should learn to let go of the shovel just before it hits anything hard. For years I would also use a wrist brace <show pic>: a piece of metal fitting into my palm and velcroed around my wrist to stop it from moving up and down and which you should be able to pick up from most pharmacies or medical shops. The tendons are like long strings which are kept close to the muscles and body because they have to go through a ring around the wrist. But if you bend your wrist constantly (at least 5,000 times a day), the tendons will rub against the confining ring and eventually wear away the slippery protective layer around the tendons. Then you have raw tendons rubbing against raw tendons, which will quickly overheat and lead to damage and swelling. I've heard stories of planters being dragged to the hospital while kicking and screaming, protesting they want to keep planting.
You get into a frenzy rushing to the next spot, trying to maximise your earnings for that day, your adrenaline gets pumped up and seems to overcome any pain. I was on one contract where the ground was hard and felt great pain in many parts of my body the first two trees after each bagup. Once moving though my body got back into it, but within a few days I decided I needed to take at least one day off, because I felt my tendons were getting close to their limits. It is easy to get carried away and not feel the pain. If you have joint problems you could consider the staff shovel. You can wrap it in duct tape to help stop your hand from slipping down. |
|
Another advantage of the staff is that your hand can slide down closer to the blade and allow you to manouevre with it, like a hand spade which you can jab with at different sharp angles in order to close the hole properly.
Another argument for the staff is that you can almost lunge it ahead of you, like a spear, in order to position it onto a candidate plantable spot and work on manouevring it into the ground before you even get there in your planting stance.
I've seen very fast planters use a staff and it all gets down to a question of choice and preference, but most planters seem to prefer the D handle.
|
I feel I have more control with the D handle, and can twist the blade to help fill the hole. To overcome the danger of hitting a hard rock, especially since I generally have joint problems, I've learned to instinctively let go a bit before slamming into the ground. Other times the soil can be mostly soft, so you can take the risk. Or you learn to read the ground better and can almost sense a hard rock coming up. |
|
Or you just absorb the shock, which can reverberate through your entire body and stress each of the joints. You should definitely try to avoid this, and if you find yourself in rockier ground, learn to let go of the shovel more before penetration. I've also learned not to bob the hand up and down so much but rather keep it stiff and parallel with the forarm. If deciding on a D handle, most planters now cut the staff part such that the entire length is quite short. You want to be able to manouevre with it as you twist and turn the blade to help fill your hole. Since you are hunched over with your other hand partially buried in the ground, a longer D handle shovel can make your work awkward. You can always adjust it later after you gain some experience. |
||
There seems to be quite some discrepancy as to the choice of blade. The very fastest planters seem to have a larger blade <link and picture etc.> . Many though use a smaller and not as broad blade, such as the WorkWizer, which comes automatically with one kicker removed. I once tried this but found that whatever time I saved penetrating the shovel into the ground was more than offset by the struggle I had forcing a straight plug < into a smaller hole. Also I've been told they are a bit weaker and have occasionally been found to bend in half when struggling against roots and rocks. The good thing about the larger blade of a Bushpro is that you can always cut it down smaller (most camps should have an electric cutter for this purpose).
|
The new generation (pictured right) are bent inwards a
bit and have a pointy tip, for quicker penetration. You can sharpen your blade in the same
way, but first try experimenting (borrow) with other blades before cutting down your
larger one. I've heard that WorkWeizers can bend in half in tougher ground. |
|
But I found that the rare times where one of my kickers would get snagged on a root as I was trying to pull it out of the ground were far outweighed by the advantage of being able to use either kicker to push the blade into the ground. As I close on planted hole, depending on my standing position and the obstacles around me, I might step off with either my left or right foot. And depending on how many steps it would take to get to the next plantable spot, I couldnt be sure whether the left or right foot would get to the next spot first. Sometimes I would use the left kicker with my right foot. Whenever I borrowed a shovel with only one kicker, it annoyed me to have to concentrate on always ending with the same foot on the same side. But you only need to use the kicker occasionally, when the ground is harder (clayey, rocky, or perhaps rooty).
The angle of the blade to the parallel of the D handle can also change. The standard is a slight angle, but others have radically changed it so that they can push the blade down to their side instead of in front of them. Again, you can experiment in camp with other planters' shovels and then adjust yours to your choosing. <show pics with links of different types> |
|
< links to other sites, like replant.ca,
http://www.tree-planter.com/, safety tips for treeplanters from the government of British Colombia
< say somewhere at top, popout or something, "This job isn't for wimps!" But
admit somewhere that most of these pics were taken from coast, but potentially tougher on
"easier ground", because you practically have to jog all day to make a lot of
money
Like this content? Please support it by pressing any or all of these links below:
Treeplanting Sitemap | About Us | Treeplanter's Treeplanting Link Exchange
Copyright © KENAX, Karel Kosman - All Rights Reserved Worldwide.